The Yemrehana Krestos Monastery is one of the most well-preserved examples of Aksumite Christian heritage. Around 40 kilometers outside Lalibela, the church pre-dates the more popular churches in the center of town.
Yemrehana Krestos was also built up to 80 years before the rock-hewn churches in central Lalibela.
Unlike the churches in the centre of town, Yemrehana Krestos was not excavated from the rock face, having been built more conventionally. It was constructed from layers of stone and wood panels, expertly designed to prevent the monastery from sinking into the marshy ground beneath. This design contributes to the monastery’s characterful aesthetic.
The gravitas of the church is enhanced by its location. Situated in a cave whose roof was formed by basalt lava flows, the monastery is shrouded in darkness, granting it a solemn and somewhat bewitching atmosphere. This cave is itself is surrounded by juniper trees, where vervet monkeys are sometimes found.
The interior of the church is spectacularly ornate, the walls of the church display carved geometric designs and colorful murals portraying various biblical scenes. It is very well-preserved, although there are a few structural problems that have developed over the years.
Like most ancient churches in Ethiopia, Yemrehana Krestos is still in use today. There is something quite fascinating – and often deeply moving – about witnessing this more than 800 year-long continuity in religious practice and heritage.
Yemrehana Krestos is one of a group of churches found in the highlands around Lalibela. The other major churches in these highlands are Asheton Maryam and Na’akuto La‘ab Monastery.